Since their
inception, there has been controversy surrounding GMO’s and the unnatural
enhancement of the natural world, and rightfully so. My intent here is not to
bash modern commercial agriculture, or the ways in which they utilize advances
in science to better meet the nutritional needs of an ever growing and hungry
world, or modern chemical gardeners for that matter. To me it’s about
choice. These things used to be solely for commercial use, but over the years they
have become more prevalent in backyard gardening.
Chemical additives have become such a part of
our lives that I’m sure there are people out there, possibly reading this right
now, who consider organic gardening to be archaic, costly, and perhaps even
dangerous when it comes to food safety -none of which are true.
Growing foods
organically on a commercial scale is not very competitive, which is why there
are fewer organic commercial farms than non-organic farms in the world and their
products are so expensive. When it comes to a personal garden though, it’s
actually cheaper to garden organically than it is to use chemical insect
repellants, commercial soil additives and “super” plant fertilizers, and I
believe it to be considerably safer and healthier as well.
Another misconception about organic gardening
is that without all the chemicals your garden yield will be less than ideal and
infected with everything under the sun -if the insects and critters leave you
anything at all. Granted this is a risk, but not as much of one as you might
think. Gardening is risky business under any circumstances -nature tends to
happen sometimes regardless of our efforts to control it. Organic gardening
simply has more practical risks and tradeoffs. For instance, when you take natural
steps to prevent critters and insects you won’t always be successful, but you
won’t be blindly killing everything either, and treating plant diseases
organically may not always be the cure, but you’ll never be at risk of
contracting diseases yourself from chemical cures. Organic foods will only feed
your plants a healthy diet so they can flower and fruit as optimal as they
naturally can.
If you’re looking for absolutes, guarantees
and fast and convenient perfection, organic gardening may not be for you, but
if want to learn how to work with nature, utilizing natural intervention and
encouragement -you’re on the right path.
If you don’t
naturally have green thumbs you might believe that gardening in general is not
for you, especially if you’ve given it a try before and your efforts withered
and died. What you might not realize is that even under the loving care of the
most green-hearted gardener, a plant can still get sick or infected and prematurely
die -nature happens. As in all that you do, just because your project failed, that
doesn’t mean you’re a failure. Don’t be discouraged by setbacks, take note and
move on -learn and grow with your garden. A good gardener is patient,
understanding and determined, at least with plants. If these qualities are not
how you would describe yourself, I encourage you even more to give organic
gardening a try as there is no better environment in which to develop such
things, and fewer rewards are greater than those reaped from a well-tended
garden.
I have no intention
of just providing a generalized garden recipe and leaving the reader to muddle
through all the possible pitfalls on their own, especially for new gardeners. I
would rather outline the entire process from planning to harvest and truly
empower the beginner to become a successful gardener. If you’re looking to transition
your gardening from traditional chemical to organic, then there’s plenty here for
you as well.
Let’s get to work!
Making
a Plan-
Think small and easily manageable, you can
always upgrade next season. A small rectangular garden with a center path and a
couple 10’ rows to either side is a great design. Raised beds are another great
way to make a garden easier to manage. We’ll discuss raised beds in more detail
later.
If you’re growing
outdoors in beds or the ground, research what types of fruits and vegetables
are best grown in your region. If you grow in a greenhouse you can drastically
extend your regional growing season. Once you have a list of your options, note
the time it takes for plants to mature and bear fruit -this will allow you to properly
plan your growing season and harvesting time.
You can space out
your harvest by planting the same crops in two or three week intervals to
spread out your harvest. Or, you may want to harvest all at once and have a
“Canning week” -it’s entirely up to your preference.
Some plants
continue to produce fruit all season while you pick away, like tomatoes, while
other plants bear fruit once and they’re done, like onions and carrots.
Some plants naturally attract garden friends
and repel some of the unwanted ones. Consider adding these to your garden.
Attract friendly insects with-
Cucumbers
Peppers
Tomatoes
Carrots
Deter the unfriendly critters with-
Dill
Basil
Sage
Mint
Rosemary
Thyme
The herbs will naturally
repel many of the unwanted pests that will inevitable find your little haven, so
even if you have no interest in harvesting these herbs, they’re still
beneficial to add here and there to improve your garden’s over-all environment.
Some plants benefit
greatly from growing next to certain other plants, just as some species don’t
grow well next to others. This is called “Companion Planting”. Onions for
instance, repel carrot flies and aphids making them great companions to plant
next to carrots and tomatoes. Peas however do not like onions growing next to
them, but a simple row of carrots between the two will solve the dispute. This
is a whole other school of knowledge, but here’s a limited list to help get you
started.
BASIL- Most friendly with tomato, pepper and oregano. Keep
away from sage.
BEANS- Most friendly with carrot, celery, corn, eggplant,
peas, potato and cucumber. Keep away from tomato, pepper and onion.
BROCCOLI- Most friendly with basil, beans, celery, cucumber,
dill, garlic, lettuce, mint, onion, rosemary, sage and thyme. Keep away from
tomato and pepper.
CABBAGE- Most friendly with celery, dill, onion and potato. Keep
away from tomato, pepper, eggplant, lettuce and beans.
CARROTS- Most friendly with lettuce, onion and tomato. Keep
away from dill.
CELERY- Most friendly with beans, cabbage, onion, spinach
and tomato. Keep away from corn and potato.
CORN- Most friendly with beans, cucumber, melons, peas, potato,
pumpkin and sunflower. Keep far away from celery and tomato, at least 20 feet.
CUCUMBERS- Most friendly with corn, beans, dill, peas and
carrots. Keep away from sage and tomato.
DILL- Most friendly with corn, lettuce, cabbage, onion and
cucumber. Keep away from carrots and tomato.
EGGPLANT- Most friendly with beans, peas, thyme, peppers and
tomato.
GARLIC- Most friendly with cabbage, cucumbers, carrots,
tomato, pepper, broccoli, lettuce and celery. Keep away from beans and peas.
LETTUCE- Most friendly with dill, broccoli, beans, carrot,
cucumber and onion. Keep away from celery and cabbage.
MELONS- Most friendly with corn, beans, pumpkin and oregano.
MINT- Most friendly with broccoli and cabbage.
ONIONS- Most friendly with carrot, dill, lettuce, tomatoes
broccoli and cabbage. Keep away from peas.
OREGANO- Most friendly with cabbage, broccoli, tomato,
pepper and cucumber.
PEAS- Most friendly with corn, beans, carrots, celery,
cucumber and eggplant. Keep away from onions and tomato.
PEPPERS- Most friendly with tomato, cucumber, eggplant,
basil, oregano and rosemary. Keep away
from beans, broccoli and cabbage.
POTATO- Most friendly with beans, cabbage, carrot, celery,
corn and onion. Keep away from tomato, cucumber, pumpkin and sunflower.
PUMPKINS- Most friendly with corn, melons, beans and dill.
ROSEMARY- Most friendly with cabbage, beans, carrot and
sage. Keep away from basil.
SAGE- Most friendly with broccoli, rosemary, cabbage, beans
and carrots. Keep away from cucumbers and onions.
SPINACH- Most friendly with peas, beans, cabbage, celery,
eggplant and onion.
SUNFLOWERS- Most friendly with corn and tomato.
THYME- Most friendly with cabbage and broccoli.
TOMATOES- Most friendly with pepper, onion, carrot, celery,
cucumber, garlic, lettuce, basil and oregano. Keep away from corn, potato,
cabbage, peas, dill and rosemary.
A perfect example
of the symbiotic relation between plant species is the “Three Sisters” -a
companion planting technique used by Native Americans for centuries. In the
center of a small mound, corn is planted, surrounded by a small ring of bean
and squash seeds. The corn provides a
structure for the beans to climb, eliminating the need for poles and
stabilizing them both. The beans provide extra nitrogen to the soil that the
other plants utilize, and the squash spreads along the ground, blocking the
sunlight and acting as a living mulch -and the prickly hairs of squash vines also
deters pests. Corn lacks certain amino acids the human body needs to make
proteins and niacin, but beans contain both. With corn providing grain and carbohydrate,
beans for protein, and squash for vitamin A, the Three Sisters provide a balanced
diet in a single mound.
Following the rules
of companion planting will greatly enhance your garden’s ability to naturally
ward off certain insects and diseases and improve the over-all health and
wellbeing of all your plants.
Designing Your Garden-
Once you have your
garden occupant list figured out, layout their new home. Draw your garden on
paper, noting the recommended spacing of each plant on your list, but don’t be
afraid to crowd them a couple inches here and there. Experiment on paper until
you’re happy with the vision of your new garden.
Consider
incorporating a small water hole in your garden, perhaps at the end of the center
path, or in between raised beds. This can easily be done by digging a shallow
pool and lining it with clear plastic sheeting (Black sheeting will absorb too
much heat for a small pool), or embedding a shallow tub of some sort. Don’t worry
about your garden pool becoming a breeding ground for insects because in the
midst of a garden it will invite frogs and toads, which will become blessed
allies. Put a layer of gravel in the bottom of it and a larger rock or two,
something for the pool friendlies to have a place to hide when you come around
-they don’t know you’re friends. Don’t be surprised when your little water
garden becomes the occasional bird bath (you can even use the top of a large
bird bath for a small garden pool). The only drawback to having birds rooting
around your garden for tasty, leaf-eating insects is they will often scratch
around in the process, which isn’t good for seedlings, but there are ways to deter
birds until your plants grow up a little, which we’ll discuss later.
Critters like
rabbits and squirrels will often take chomps out of your fruits to quench their
thirst. Having a watering hole around will give them a more accessible option.
Once you have a
design you’re happy with, now you need a place to put it. Survey your property
and choose a spot with a good amount of sunlight consistent with your plant’s
needs. Plot out your new garden site with some sticks and string.
Raised Garden Beds-
A surefire way to
make a garden easier to manage is growing in raised beds. This is a great way
to get around having poor soil conditions. Raised beds get you off the ground a
little, which makes tending physically easier on the body. Watering in a raised
bed directs the moisture to plant roots more efficiently and consistently than
in open ground. The soil of a raised bed never gets compacted, which can reduce
crop yields up to 50 percent -water, air and roots all have difficulty moving
through soil compressed by tractors, tillers or human feet. Rather you have ideal
earth in which to plant a standard garden or not, raised beds are something you
might want to consider.
A good sized raised bed to start with is 4’x4’,
which is a nice little garden that still allows you to easily reach all your
plants. Space individual beds 3’apart if you want to use more than one. Grid
layouts like this allow you to consolidate plant species for individual care -a
tomato/pepper bed, a green leafy bed, an herb bed, and so on. You should
reconstitute the soil and rotate crops every season if you do this to prevent
the buildup of certain minerals. A 4’x4’ garden may not sound or look like much,
but they’re easy to manage and you can always add more beds next year, and
you’ll surely be surprised by how many vegetables can come out of successful
4’x4’ garden.
Use 2”x8” non-treated lumber, they come in 8’
boards and the lumberyard can even cut them in half for you. Lay them up on
their sides in a square formation and tack a nail into each corner to hold them
in place. Square them up by measuring from one corner diagonally across to the
opposite corner, note the measurement. Then measure again the same way between
the other diagonal corners. Bump the corner in or out to adjust. When the two
measurements of this “X” are the same your box will be square. Unless the
boards are exactly the same length and you measured in precisely the same
places on each corner, it won’t be perfectly square, but it really doesn’t need
to be. Use deck screws to fasten them securely together, 3-4 screws in each
corner.
If you have burrowing
pests around, you can attach chicken wire or the like to the bottom of your
boxes.
Chop up the soil under your boxes as best you
can, uproot and turn the grass so it will become food for your garden. Fill
your bed with garden soil as outlined below.
Garden Soil-
Ideal garden soil
is rich in organic matter, drains well and yet retains moisture. A day after watering, a squeezed handful of
good garden soil should hold together but easily crumble apart.
As many gardeners
as there are in the world, there are as many recipes for making garden soil
-and you too will someday have your own preferred recipe I’m sure. A common
ratio is ⅓
top soil, ⅓ compost, and ⅓ peat moss, with a little coarse sand, perlite or
other such agent to add in drainage and aeration. You can
purchase organic potting soil to start with if you like, there’s no shame in it,
but make sure it contains no chemical fertilizers. If you can also get ahold of
some organic compost to fortify your top soil or potting soil with that’s
great, but I’ll teach you how to fortify organically yourself and how to set up
a compost pile for next year.
If your soil is dry and rocky and even grass
has a hard time growing, you’ll probably need to at least bring in some good top
soil to work with and you can enrich that.
If your land is at
least grass-friendly then you can most likely turn it into good garden soil yourself
with a little work.
From Yard to Garden-
Assess your soil’s drainage properties by digging a hole 6
inches wide and deep and filling it with water. It should drain between 5 and
15 minutes.
If your soil
doesn’t drain well consider adding some coarse sand or creek pebbles to your
list of things to eventually till in.
Consider these organic additives for added
drainage, aeration and moisture retention-
·
Mulched leaves and grass clippings (no roots or
seeds)
·
Wood chips (No treated lumber)
·
Tree bark
·
Peat moss
The primary
nutritional factors plants need are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. Plants
need all three to thrive, but at different stages in their development and at
different ratios for different species. If you can start with a good balance of
these three you won’t need to feed your plants throughout the season.
Nitrogen (N) -Green leafy growth
Phosphorus (P) -Roots and flowers
Potassium (K) -Overall health and blooming
Young plants will
utilize all three to get off to a good start. You need to know the differences
if you plant specifics, or in separate family beds. Leafy vegetables, like
lettuce will thrive with a higher nitrogen ratio, while higher levels of phosphorus
and potassium will cause lettuce to “bolt” or bloom, which makes them bitter.
Carrots will thrive with higher levels of Phosphorus than the other two, and
flowering, fruiting plants like cucumbers and tomatoes will thrive with higher
levels of phosphorus and potassium with lower nitrogen.
If you have compost to begin with, pick from
the following list of organic additives to customize your soil for specific
nutritional needs, to add more nitrogen to a bed for instance. If you’re
starting with only top soil, formulate a complete organic fertilizer recipe
from the list below.
Organic soil additives to consider for base nutrition-
- Compost (N, P & K) -decayed fruit,
vegetable, green and brown matter.
- Manure (N, P & K, mostly N) -Fresh is too
potent, best when seasoned six months to a year.
-
Wood Ash (P & K, mostly K) -Not the white
ash, no charcoal or treated lumber. Changes your soil’s PH if used in large
amounts. More on that later.
- Egg shells (N, P & K) -Specifically high in
calcium, which many plants thrive on.
- Green grass clippings (N, P & K, mostly N)
- Coffee and tea grounds (N, P & K, mostly N) -Will
change your soil’s PH if used in large amounts.
- Oak leaves (N, P & K) -Great for mulching
too.
- Chopped banana peels (N, P & K. mostly K) -Packed
with potassium and micronutrients.
- Pine needles (N, P &K, mostly P) -High in
phosphorus and great for mulching too, but wait until your plants have grown a
few inches tall to use as mulch.
*All of these are great compost additives as well, which
we’ll discuss later, but your plants will still benefit from these amenities
throughout the season.
As for how much organic
matter you need, remember you’re looking for around one third of your garden’s
contents to be organic compost, the other two-thirds are top soil (⅓)
and other components (⅓) like wood chips, coarse sand, pebbles, peat moss and so
on for drainage, moisture retention and aeration.
If you keep record
of what you use each season you’ll be able to recognize what additives work best
and what your plants could have used more of, and gradually you’ll develop your
own unique garden soil recipe. You won’t get it perfect the first time and if
you do, you got lucky, but there’s no need to be impatient when this is a
life-long endeavor. Take a chance, make some choices and go with them, see what
happens. If you only absorb half of the information I’m sharing here you should
still manage a healthy garden -from here on out it’s about dialing it in, which
takes time and the occasional mistake. But mistakes are understandable and won’t
dissuade us, right? Right.
On to more notes…
Soil PH Level-
Pick up a soil PH
testing kit at your local garden center and test the soil of your future garden
site. PH testing kits are inexpensive and easy to use. Most vegetables thrive
in a slightly acidic soil -between 5 and 7 on the PH scale -7 being neutral.
Wood ash will raise
your soil’s PH level to a more alkaline level, while coffee and tea grounds will
lower it to more acidic levels. If your soil is anywhere between 5 and 7, only
add small amounts of these for nutritional value to keep from drastically
changing your soil’s PH level. If you need to change your soil’s PH level a
whole point or more in either direction, there’s no universal ratio of amounts to
use since the current condition of your soil will determine how effective other
additives will be. When you’re ready to add all your additives and till, try mixing
in a couple cups of ash or grounds into a 4’ x 4’ raised bed, or a pound to a
10’x10’ open ground garden. Water in and test again.
*The standard method of adjusting PH levels is with Lime or
Sulfur. I prefer to use ingredients more readily available, but if the ways
I’ve outlined don’t adjust your PH level enough, or you’re working with large
plots of land, you’ll have to consider using Lime or Sulfur, or be limited to
growing crops specific to your soil’s PH level. If you want to use Lime or
Sulfur I suggest contacting your local office of the Department of Agriculture
and having them test your soil so you’ll know precisely how much of these to add
because the type of soil they’re added to matters.
*Wood ash contains salts which are a little too harsh for direct
contact with sproutling roots, so if you’ve had to add a lot to change your
soil’s PH (like 5 pounds to a 10’x10’ area), put a few inches of ashless soil
down and sow seeds in that.
Now that you have a
game plan for what your garden needs and your list of additives, now you can
add some sweat to the equation.
For raised beds
-mix up a recipe and fill your boxes to within a couple inches from the top.
Pack lightly, rake smooth and you’re ready to go.
For a ground garden
-till up the grass in your garden spot so they’ll become food for your new
garden. Add your additives and till away. If you would rather keep the machines
out, turn it all over to the depth of a standard shovel blade. Add your
additives and chop and turn until it’s all well incorporated.
Shape your garden
into rows or mounds as desired and secure any stakes or lattice your plants may
need for support.
If you’re going to
put up a border fence to deter critters now is the time for that. If you don’t
like fences, there are other steps you can take to discourage critters from
helping themselves to your hard work, which we’ll discuss later.
Water your new
garden well and let it rest for at least a couple days, a week is better.
Now you’re ready to
plant!
Seeds-
Not all seeds are
created equal.
Heirloom seeds come
from plants under controlled environments to protect the integrity of the breed
from cross-pollination. Plants grown from Heirloom seeds are more likely to
produce seeds of their own like their parent. However, if you plant different
species of Heirloom plants in your garden, tomatoes for instance, there’s a
chance they’ll produce hybrid seeds from being naturally cross-pollinated.
Hybrid seeds are
the product of deliberate cross-pollination, designed to have specific attributes
of different species. This is typically done to produce faster growing plants, larger
fruits and bushy “patio” plants. The resulting seeds from Hybrid plants will
not necessarily have the same attributes of the parent, regardless of
additional cross-pollination that may, or may not, occur in your garden, as
hybrid attributes are not particularly stable from generation to generation.
GMO (Genetically
Modified Organism) seeds are specifically engineered to have certain
attributes, typically to produce plants that are resistant to certain diseases and
insects. Seeds harvested from GMO plants tend to be sterile. Seeds are not
always clearly labeled “GMO”, but if they’re resistant to something that’s
typically why.
Organic seeds are
harvested from pants that have been protected from chemical contamination and genetic
manipulation. Organic seeds can be Heirloom or hybrid and will grow much better
under organic condition as they are not specifically designed for chemicals
additives.
Read your seed
packets carefully so you know what exactly you’re growing.
Sowing Seeds-
Once you have your
garden seeds, select 3-5 seeds for every plant you wish to grow. Soak them
overnight in warm water before sowing.
The general rule for
seed planting depth is 1½ times their size. Speck-sized seeds like lettuce should
just be sprinkled on the soil with soil sprinkled over them, small seeds like
pepper and cucumber should be planted ½ inch deep, and larger seeds like
beans and corn should be planted 1 to 2 inches deep.
Plant spacing
depends on the resulting species. Excessive over-crowding can hinder the growth
potential and over-all health of certain species, but a little crowding beyond
the standard recommendation is not uncommon. Lettuce and other ground cover
crops can be thinned out as they grow so sow away (Always pinch or snip plants
off at ground level to thin them out as opposed to pulling them up by the roots
as this may disturb the roots of its neighbors). Average stand-alone plant
spacing is 2-3 feet apart. Root plant like carrots and onions are 2-3 inches
apart. Pumpkins, melons and squash are best grown 2 feet apart, 3-5 plants atop
a single mound. Rows of corn should be 2 feet apart with the plants spaced 2 feet
apart along the rows.
After you see your
plants through a season you’ll get a better idea of how they’ll grow in your
garden under these conditions.
Lightly pack the
soil over the seeds to ensure good soil to seed contact.
Water in well, misting
for shallow seeds. To make sure you’re putting down enough water, when you
think you’re good, poke a stick in a spot with no seeds and open it up and see
just how deep your water went. You want at least a couple inches of moisture
below seed level to get them going and encourage deep roots. Water once a day,
perhaps twice a day during hot, windy conditions to keep the seeds moist until
they pop.
Once your seeds show
their first “true leaves” (Plants sprout with a single set of generic “starter
leaves” first) choose the healthiest looking seedling from each group of 3-5 that
you sowed and snip off the others at the soil level. Begin a weekly water
schedule.
*I prefer to advise sowing seeds directly in the garden like
this because a lot of things can go wrong when transplanting unless you know
exactly what to look for, when the time is right, how to harden seedlings off
and how to handle them during this process. I encourage you to experiment
though, seek advice elsewhere and try out new techniques. A good gardener, like
their plants, is always looking for new ways to grow.
Watering-
Under optimal
conditions, the standard requirement is one inch of water per week, so it’s
advisable to set up a rain gauge in your garden until you “just know” how much
water your plants need from week to week. Over and under watering are easy ways
to undermine a good garden. Over-watering drowns them and under-watering
encourages shallow roots, which makes plants weaker and more susceptible to
disease.
A rain gauge
doesn’t need to be complicated. Any container with straight sides and the same
amount of opening space as flat bottom space will work, such as a coffee can. Put
in a ruler or make one inch marks on the side to gauge weekly water levels. A
simple rain gauge can be made by cutting the top off of a plastic bottle where the
sloping cone of the top meets the straight sides. Remove the cap and invert the
top down into the bottle. Secure the funnel with duct tape (a funnel top just
helps keep debris out). Use a permanent marker to mark one inch increments up from
the bottom.
Secure your new
rain gauge somewhere in your garden so it won’t blow over in the wind and is
open to the sky, and placed where you’ll readily hit it with water whenever you
water. You can tie a bottle or can gauge to a stick and simply stick in the
ground. Make sure you hit your gauge as often as you hit the rest of your
garden. Empty your gauge after each watering and check it soon after it rains
and note the amount before it evaporates away.
Certain conditions
may put greater watering needs on your plants than an inch a week, but your
plants will let you know. When a plant’s cells are adequately filled with water
it will stand as erect as it can. If a plant needs water it will wilt, droop
and sag like a half-filled inflatable toy. Excessive heat will also cause a
plant to droop as it attempts to get away from the heat source, so don’t rush
to water if high temperature may be causing this. If it’s the heat causing
wilting your plants should stand up again after sunset, or as soon as it cools
down.
Water the ground as
much as possible, not the plants. Wet plants are more susceptible to disease.
Your pants do need a bath from time to time though, especially in windy and
dust conditions. The surface of leaves will absorb sunlight more efficiently
when they’re clean, and plants breathe from the underside of their leaves, so
once a month or so give your plants a good spraying down, but do it early in
the morning so they’ll have plenty of time to dry out before nightfall.
Organic Feeding-
Tomato, Pepper,
Cabbage, Broccoli and Cauliflower all thrive with extra calcium. Crumble eggs
shells directly under these plants so they get an extra nutrient boost with
every watering.
If you’re able to
fortify your garden soil with an ample amount of compost you won’t need to
regularly feed your plants -over feeding can be harmful. If you want to give
your plants a boost after hard times (bad weather, sickness, pruning), or to compensate
for weak nutritional soil, give them a drink of compost or manure tea.
Take manure or
compost and fill a bucket ⅓ full. Fill up with water and set a loose lid on it. Allow
the mixture to sit for a week to ferment and allow the nutrients to dissolve. Strain
off what you need and dilute with clean water until it’s light brown, like weak
tea. This may not smell very good to you, but it’s the best organic fertilizer
on the planet and your plants will love it.
Don’t feed your
garden more than once a month under any circumstances, more is not always
better. Unless your plants are somehow growing in near sterile soil this will
be plenty. Over-feeding is another common cause of garden failure from
food-poisoning.
Mulching-
Mulching helps keep
your garden soil from rapidly drying out, as well as deterring weed growth. After
you plants are a few inches tall, mulch with pine needles and you’ll not only
keep the weeds down, but give them a healthy nutrient boost every time they get
water. Oak leaves and wood chips are a good second choice.
Pull up weeds as
you find them, they’re leeching vital nutrients. Get them while they’re young
so pulling them up by their roots won’t disturb your plants.
Critter Control-
Keep birds away
from your garden by hanging old CDs on strings. Anything that’s highly
reflective will help scare them away -strips of foil, pinwheels, pie tins, etc.
This technique works well for critters in general. Small critters like birds, rabbits
and squirrels are always on high alert for danger so it’s hard for them to
relax around flashing lights, it’s just too busy an atmosphere for them to hang
out and comfortably snack on your goodies so they’ll look elsewhere for easier
takings.
To further deter
birds, place rubber snakes out in the open around your garden and the birds
will look elsewhere for a less risky place to dine. Even though birds may
disturb your mulch from time to time, if that’s all the damage they do, their
help with keeping the insect population down is worth the trouble of having to
spread the mulch around again. If they get to be a nuisance though, now you
know what to do.
Put pet hair into a
loose knit cloth and fold it into a pouch. Hang these pouches around your
garden and critters will think your dog or cat is hiding somewhere in your
garden, waiting to pounce.
Have slugs? You
probably can’t see them because they tend to hideaway in the day, but their
shiny, slimy trails will alert you to their presence. Set out a jar lid of
grape juice near the plants in question and check it early in the morning
before the sun comes up. Coral them up and relocate them far from your garden.
They won’t crawl across ash either so an ash border around a plant works well
to keep them away.
Keep the dogs and
other critters out of your garden by sprinkling a defensive line of ground hot
peppers and garlic around your garden. Replace after heavy rainfall.
Once your plants
are a few inches tall, make shiny collars for them using aluminum strips from a
soda can, or aluminum foil. Place the collars loosely around the stalk, an inch
deep in the soil and an inch above the soil. This will turn many damaging bugs
away.
If you spy ants
crawling on one of your plants, don’t panic, investigate, see what they’re up
to -they’re most likely cleaning your plants of other insect eggs and larvae.
If they’re gnawing on your leaves then spray them with a bottle of water, mild
soap, ground hot peppers and garlic juice and they’ll think again about feasting
on your plants. This “bug juice” works well to deter most insects.
Be diligent. Take a
stroll in your garden as often as you can, it’s good for the spirit anyway.
Inspect your plants for insects and pick them off as you go. Make sure to peek
at the underside of leaves where a lot of bugs like to camp out.
Critters You Want-
-
Lady Bugs
- Praying Mantises
- Spiders
- Frogs and Toads
- Wasps and bees
Self-Pollinating-
If your plants do
not get properly pollinated they will not produce quality fruits, if any at
all. The dusty pollen needs to get from one flower to the next on the same plant,
or often from one part of the flower to another part of the same flower. If
you’re growing in a greenhouse, or don’t have a healthy bee population around
your property, or you just want to ensure good pollination, you can do this
yourself.
Once a day as soon
as flowers open you can gently shake each plant to help spread the pollen
around.
If you have even
more patience you can use a small, soft artist’s brush. Once a day during the
flowering stage, loosen the pollen from flower’s male parts (called antlers,
the little fuzzy topped antennae looking thingys between the petals and the
centermost thingy) and brush the pollen onto the tip of the flower’s lady parts
(called the stigma, the centermost protrusion, often another antennae looking
thingy). Do this to each flower on each plant and you’ll not only ensure robust
fruiting, but this will deter cross-pollination if you thoroughly rinse the
brush between species. This is how hybrids are created, directing the pollen from
one plant to another of the same species to produce a desired effect. Doing
this with different colored flowers of the same species will inevitable vary
the coloration of their offspring. This is why you can find so many different
and spectacular color variations of the same species at flower shops. Some
gardeners dedicate their lives to this extremely patient art.
When growing corn
in small amounts, less than one acre plots, it’s recommended to self-pollinate
them because they’re a wind pollinated crop. Without acres of rows to keep the
pollen concentrated on the plants it can easy be lost in the breeze. As soon as
the flowery parts on top of the corn stalk begin to dust when you tap the stalk,
and the little fruit pods below show whitish silk from their tops, place a
paper bag over the flowers and gently shake the stalk, then place the bag of
fresh pollen over the silky parts of the fruits and tap the bag to dust the
silk with pollen. This procedure may be tedious, but repeating this for each
plant, daily throughout the flowering period, will ensure healthy fruit
production. My first attempt at growing corn produced lush, vibrant plants that
produced pitiful, underdeveloped ears. I did a great job of helping them grow
but then they didn’t pollinate well. The following season was dramatically
better after my research for what went wrong revealed the necessity of
self-pollinating corn in a small garden.
Treating Disease-
Plant disease is the
greatest fear of any gardener and why GMO plants resistant to certain diseases
are so popular. As an organic gardener, prevention is the best defense. When
plants are too wet too long they invite mold and disease, which is why it’s
important to water early in the morning. When it rains in the evening don’t
hesitate to go out and shake your plants free of excess water if you can, this
will help.
Keep leaves from
touching the ground as this too will invite mildew and the like. Stake plants
that need it and prune low-hanging branches if needed to keep them off the
ground. Always thoroughly clean your pruning instruments after touching a
diseased plant, that goes for your hands as well.
A natural remedy
you can try is a little baking soda, mild soap and water. At the first sign of
trouble, dark or white spots on leaves or fruit, wash the plant down with this
tonic. If the condition only worsens after a couple days, remove the diseased
parts and continue treatment. Dispose of the plant if it doesn’t improve after
a week or so of treatment before it infects your other plants. This won’t cure
every condition, but it will help with some.
There are too many
diseases and treatments for me to outline here, so anytime you experience something
wrong in your garden, research for answers. Hit the internet, send pics to
gardening friends, including me, learn and grow.
Never put diseased
plant parts in your compost pile -burn them.
Harvesting-
The best time to
harvest from your garden is early morning, just after the dew has dried. Crops
are cooler and have a higher water content and crisper texture than later in
the day.
Plants grown for
their leaves should be harvested when they’re young and most tender. Harvest
early in the season and often. Snip leaves not too close to the core of the
plant and more new leaves will be ready in a just few days.
A lot of gardener’s
end up giving their hard-earned gems away at the end of every season because
it’s really easy to grow more than you can ever eat in one season. Why not fill
up your pantry instead? Dehydrate, pickle and can away! Refer to my post “Home
Canning For beginners” to get you started.
Saving Seeds-
Seed saving is a
wise practice and can save you the trouble of purchasing seeds again the
following year. Not all your seeds will germinate and there’s no way around
this unpredictable nature. Most seeds last about 3 years under prime conditions,
but some only 1-2 years, while other seeds have been known to germinate a
decade or more after storage.
Wash new seeds and
allow to dry on newspaper for a week. Store them in sealed containers like
spice jars, pill bottles, film canisters and so on. Add something to absorb any
remaining moisture in the seeds or they may rot -silica gel from the floral
aisle at your local craft store, or you can fold up some powdered milk in a
paper towel. Replace moisture traps every year.
Label and date your
seed containers and store in a cool dry place away from light. It’s very
important for stored seeds to not undergo extreme temperature fluctuations.
Some gardeners like to store seeds in their refrigerator, or even the freezer, which
is fine, but if the power goes out for long -there goes your seeds. The most
secure way to store seeds is to bury them 2’ underground -below the frost line.
Composting-
There are many different
types of composting bin designs to fit any lifestyle. Since I don’t use a bin
to compost I won’t recommend a specific design for you to use, I use a pile.
Bins are great, especially for esthetics purposes, but a managed pile serves
the same purpose.
A compost pile, or bin, is simply the
controlled decay of organic material by heat, moisture and the proper
ingredients. Set-up a compost pile in full sunlight and cover it with black
plastic sheeting to attract and hold heat, bins are typically black for this
purpose as well. Add only organic material that you know has not been exposed
to chemicals. There two types of compost ingredients -green and brown. Green additives are things like grass
clippings, vegetable waste, coffee and tea grounds (Though brown in color
they’re considered green because of their rich nutrient content), eggshells,
banana peels and so on. Brown additives are things like twigs, tree bark, dry
leaves, straw, pine needles and so on. Make sure all the remnants of your garden
find their way into your compost pile as well. Chop all the ingredients into
small pieces to help them break down.
Turn your pile over once a week with a shovel
or pitch fork to keep everything well incorporated. Compost needs to stay moist
to properly cook so give it a good shower after turning.
Do not add meat to
your compost pile or bin or you’ll attract critters. Bones are great, but dry
them out and crush them with a hammer first.
Add a can of beer
to a new compost pile to help get things off and cooking.
More Tips-
Make your peppers
even hotter by watering them less than your other plants, tapering off even
more as they mature. They’re native to hot, dry climates after all. Cool them
down a little by watering well.
Lettuce doesn’t
like a lot of sun so plant them beside tomato plants for some companionship
shade.
Improve a plant’s
fruit production by removing suckers (The little leaflets that will sprout from
internode junctions where the branches meet the stem). Once your plant sets
fruit, pinch these off as they appear because they will only leech nutrients that
your plant could be pumping into the fruits.
Rotate crops every
year so the same family is not planted in the same area of your garden. This
helps prevent soil borne diseases.
I hope this article
has helped some of you to reconsider getting your hands dirty, or to take a
bold leap into a whole new world. No matter who you are, where you’re from or
where you’ve been, there’s always a place for you in a garden.
Let’s get growing!